 I'm going to install a ProCharger P-1SC centrifugal supercharger at some point, but not just yet. First of all, I want to make the sequential EFI work well naturally aspirated first. Secondly, the current engine won't survive supercharging - I'm going to build another engine at a later stage. Anyway, the charger and the EFI must jive together, so now is the time to fabricate the brackets and mock up the system. |
 I purchased the whole kit intended for a carbureted Chevy SB, as recommended by the distributor of ProCharger in Finland, Sportti-Auto. The kit contains everything needed to install this charger onto a SB Chevy - the charger, pulleys, belt, brackets, carb hat, tubing etc. Finally, the only usable parts were the charger and the tensioner pulley. The crank pulley is actually an ATI Super Damper with a pulley integrated into the outer shell. All the bracketry had to designed from scratch. I tested a few bracket desings using plywoood, to find the location for the charger and the basic shape for the main bracket. Once happy with the results, the actual bracket was made of a 10 mm plate of ALUMEC tooling aluminum. Its strenght is very close to mild steel. And it cannot be welded. A lot harder than standard aluminum alloys, yet very nice to machine! Expensive? Very! |
 The space is at premium here. The charger is as close to the engine as can be, and even now, I discovered the the hood inner brace touches the charger pulley, and the hood won't even close, so something radical needs to done. My idea is to mount an air-to-air intercooler in front of the radiator, but it will be difficult to route the 3" tube/hose there and back. The suction side is going to need some kind of an elbow to the air filter. The charger must be oriented so that the oil fill plug and s/n plate remain topmost. ProCharger is self-contained and doesn't need motor oil circulation like Vortech or turbos. When you need a refill, Red Line 10 Wt Race Oil is a good choice. |
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left: I created mounts for the main bracket by substituting the two
lower water pump bolts with studs, as seen here. Above right: The mechanical fan had no room here and needed to go. Unfortunately there's not enough room for an electric puller fan either, not even the thinnest SPAL ( I've got one that's 2" max thickness and it still doesn't fit in). So I have to make with a pusher fan, although it's not as efficient nor elegant. You can also see the Bosch coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing, necessitated by EFI. The radiator was actually re-cored just recently. The old core started to leak, and was almost entirely clogged, too. While at it, I also had the heater core re-cored, as it started leaking at about the same time as the radiator! |
 The main bracket is gusseted by a stainless bracket secured by head bolts. These two head bolts are longer than the others as they originally secure the air cleaner bracket. This bracket doesn't look like much but is actually 5 mm thick, except for the "angle iron" part which is only 4 mm thick. On the bottom, there's a stainless rigging screw (sailors know what it is), and it's the final part that keeps everything lined up. It bolts up to the original generator bracket. The belt tensioner is adjusted from this side. If you are wondering what's the weird groove on this side of the main bracket, it's a little "oops" in the CNC mill programming. Naturally, everything was buffed and polished, as usual. |