Jyrki's Buick Site - project status 4/2001

April 2001 - Lead ain't dead!

Well, here are the gravel shields that I found at last. These came from Dan Myers of DM Vintage Automotive. When they arrived, I was a bit disappointed, as the supposed "good condition" looked as if a group of elephants had been mating on them. It took a lot of straightening dents and grinding deep scratches away, 4 days of work, including buffing and polishing. They look rather neat now, don't they?

Lead ain't dead! Here's some leadwork around the frenched headlight rim, a kit I got from Night Prowlers. Here I have brushed the "tin" or flux over the area to be tinned.

In this picture I have heated the area with a propane torch, wiping it with a rag once the surface starts to "bubble".

At this point, you should wash this area with ample water, otherwise the acids may come haunting on you thru the paintwork!

I'm also filling the signal light opening and the seam running on top of fender, under the (shaved) molding strip.
Why lead? It really bonds to steel and expands and contracts along with the base substrate and withstands vibration, unlike plastic filler, and will never come off. It may be applied thick, doesn't shrink or absorb water, and won't let rust cut in

Here's the right rear fender welded solid onto the body. Also notice the long patch panel strip on the body side. It's where moisture in the trunk condensates.
Also visible: while I replaced the rotten lower section of rear body, I also omitted the original taillight openings.

Here's the same fender, seams filled with lead.
The round hole is a starting point for a 46 Cadillac taillamp assy. I also filled the reflector holes on fender sides.

Dang, I just realized that my Buick is now wider than the garage door opening. Oops...

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Well, here are the gravel shields that I found at last. These came from Dan Myers of DM Vintage Automotive. When they arrived, I was a bit disappointed, as the supposed "good condition" looked as if a group of elephants had been mating on them. It took a lot of straightening dents and grinding deep scratches away, 4 days of work, including buffing and polishing. They look rather neat now, don't they?
Lead ain't dead! Here's some leadwork around the frenched headlight rim, a kit I got from Night Prowlers. Here I have brushed the "tin" or flux over the area to be tinned.
In this picture I have heated the area with a propane torch, wiping it with a rag once the surface starts to "bubble". At this point, you should wash this area with ample water, otherwise the acids may come haunting on you thru the paintwork!
I'm also filling the signal light opening and the seam running on top of fender, under the (shaved) molding strip. Why lead? It really bonds to steel and expands and contracts along with the base substrate and withstands vibration, unlike plastic filler, and will never come off. It may be applied thick, doesn't shrink or absorb water, and won't let rust cut in
Here's the right rear fender welded solid onto the body. Also notice the long patch panel strip on the body side. It's where moisture in the trunk condensates. Also visible: while I replaced the rotten lower section of rear body, I also omitted the original taillight openings.
Here's the same fender, seams filled with lead. The round hole is a starting point for a 46 Cadillac taillamp assy. I also filled the reflector holes on fender sides. Dang, I just realized that my Buick is now wider than the garage door opening. Oops...